Guwahati is the gateway to Northeast India. Most travellers fly in, transfer straight to Shillong or Kaziranga, and fly out from here without seeing the city itself. That is a missed stop. Guwahati has the Kamakhya Temple, one of the most important Shakti Peethas in India; a working Brahmaputra riverfront; wild rhinos an hour away at Pobitora; and honest, under-rated Assamese food.